Cooking in the Danger Zone Reviews
Cooking in the Danger Zone Reviews
‘An insane idea, but a fascinating film’ Daily Telegraph 19/07/06
‘Terrific reportage: thoughtful, unpatronising and gently provocative’ Guardian 22/7/06
‘A kind of antidote to the mundanity of the rest of culinary TV’ Mail on Sunday 30/7/6
‘Deceptively sharp, very funny and gently inquisitive’
Guardian 5/5/7
‘The insight into modern Afghan life is fascinating’
Sunday Times 16/7/6
‘Who said that the life of a TV presenter was glamorous?’ Evening Standard 25/7/6
“An inspired idea, and Stefan Gates was the ideal person to do it. He is articulate, intrepid and sympathetic, and - unlike many foodies on TV - he doesn’t show off..’ Times 19/5/7
Critic’s Choice in:
Observer 20/5/7
Times 19/5/7
Guardian 19/5/7
Sunday Times 13/5/7
Mail on Sunday 13/5/7
Times 12/5/7
Times 7/3/7
Observer 6/5/7
Independent 6/5/7
Mail on Sunday 6/5/7
Guardian 5/5/7
Times 5/5/7
Sunday Times 4/3/7
Daily Mail 3/3/7
Times 3/3/7
Independent 3/3/7
Guardian 24/2/7
Times 24/2/7
FT 21/2/7
Zoo 16/2/7 !!
Guardian 10/2/7
Telegraph 7/2/7
Times 7/2/7
Sunday Times 4/2/7
Observer 4/2/7
Independent on Sunday 4/2/7
Mail on Sunday 4/2/7
Independent 3/2/7
Times 3/2/7
Express 3/2/7
Telegraph 3/2/7
Guardian 3/2/7
Times 8/8/6
Guardian 5/8/6
Guardian 29/7/6
Evening Standard 25/7/6
Times 25/7/6
Telegraph 25/7/6
Guardian 22/7/6
Times 22/7/6
Telegraph 22/7/6
Mail 22/7/6
Independent 18/7/6
Guardian 18/7/6
Telegraph 18/7/6
Times 18/7/7
Observer 16/7/6
Sunday Times 16/7/6
Sunday Telegraph 16/7/6
News of the World 16/7/6
Guardian 15/7/6
Times 15/7/6
Telegraph 15/7/6
Express 15/7/6
An extraordinary review from the Mail on Sunday
There’s no easy way to say this, but cooking on television has got completely out of control. Not only do cooks clog up terrestrial TV like fat in an artery, but their numerous spin-offs and repeats pepper the digital schedules with their stove-based idiocy as well. Cookery has become TV’s default setting, and no idea, it seems, is too daft for transmission as long as there’s some catering involved. Fans of comedy will recall the scene in which Alan Partridges attempts to rescue his TV career by pitching a series of ill-considered programme ideas to his former boss at the BBC. After Monkey Tennis and Inner-City Sumo the increasingly desperate Partridge comes up with Cooking in Prison. Now, reality draw ever closer to parody as the BBC brings us, in all seriousness, Cooking in the Danger Zone.
The irony, though, is that as ridiculous as this programme sounds, it turns out to be very good indeed, so much so that it even works as kind of antidote to the mundanity of the rest of culinary TV. Each week, Stefan Gates, one of the few TV cooks not yet bloated with his own self-worth - travels to the world’s trouble spots to discover what people eat and how they go about getting it. If you have ever tired of Jamie Oliver sourcing ingredients from cheery locals, then watching Stefan navigate raw sewage and ammunition dumps in search of a square meal is, figuratively speaking, a breath of fresh air.
Rather than simply being a cheap picnic in someone else’s misery, Cooking in the Danger Zone manages to successfully blend the political and social realities of its locations with the nitty gritty of its subjects’ nutritional needs. Having made kebabs in Afghanistan and taken stock of a Korean dog farm, this week he pitches up in Uganda for what turns out to be the most interesting programme in the series so far.
Although Uganda is one of the most fertile places on earth, civil unrest means that millions of its people are confined to refugee camps. Its to these places that Stefan goes to find out how you cook for a family of 11 on rations that make up just 63% of the minimum amount of food recommended for basic sustenance and survival.
What could be grotesque and patronising turns out to be informative and occasionally shocking. It say something about our relationship with the media that its easier to absorb information about world poverty from a cookery programme than it is from the news, but that’s what this show does so well. The need for and the ability to appreciate food unites us all, and these excursions into the extremes of cuisine highlight what we have in common with people whose lives appear to be utterly different from our own.
Michael Holden 30/7/6
Sunday Times
For such a diffident-looking chap, the food fanatic Stefan Gates has been very bold in this excellent travel series. He concludes by visiting Burma, easily the most hazardous “danger zone” yet, smuggling himself into the jungle where the Karen people are a fighting vicious guerilla war with the Burmese army. He discovers that having mined the fields of the local villages, the soldiers must catch what animals they can. Let’s just say it’s another episode that will not thrill the World Wildlife Foundation
Sunday Times 04/03/07
Telegraph
‘At first glance, a cookery programme set in Afghanistan might seem akin to a Syrian version of What Not to Wear - unlikely, and bordering on the tasteless. But what the makers of Cooking in the Danger Zone have understood is that in developing countries, food is politics. “in Afghanistan, half the children are said to be malnourished,” said TV cook Stefan Gates, as Sabra, a widow with six kids prepares her meal with her World Food Programme rations of lentils, wheat and oil (no rice). “we are often hungry,” she said as her children tore through their food. Meanwhile, guests staying in Kabul’s first five-star hotel certainly didn’t go short. “Those prawns have to be flown in,” said that maitre d’ as fancy food was wheeled through to the nameless “ambassadors and investors”. Stefan observed that the $300 it cost per night was the annual wage of your average Afghani. But then, it was the only place where you didn’t feel he might bet randomly killed. After visiting a tank graveyard full of rusting Soviet military detritus (including Scud missiles), Stefan noted it was blown up the very next day and two people killed. Even when he retreated to the hills to prepare kebabs using meat and testicles from the fames Afghan fat-tailed sheep, you could see the army helicopters humming by. The suffering and violence was pervasive, but what of the future? “I want my daughters to go to school,” said Sabra, a desire so humble that it was heartbreaking. An insane idea, but a fascinating film.
Abi Grant. Telegraph 19/7/6
Guardian
‘This series was an absolute joy when it debuted on BBC4, and it deserves the opportunity of a BBC2 run. It’s rooted in a concept which could have gone horribly wrong - getting food writer Stefan Gates to visit assorted troublespots and heckholes, and explain them through their cuisine. However, Gates proves a deceptively sharp, very funny and gently inquisitive voyager, and this is wonderful documentary television. Tonight, Gates visits the dog-munchers of Korea and the whale, walrus and seal-scoffing Inuit of northern Canada. Viewers may disenjoy the footage of seal-hunting and dog-farming.’ AM. 5/5/07
Times
Looking at troubled parts of the world through something as basic as the food that people eat was an inspired idea, and Stefan Gates was the ideal person to do it. He is articulate, intrepid and sympathetic, and - unlike many foodies on TV - he doesn’t show off. Tonight Gates is in war-torn Uganda where at least there are glimmers of hope. ‘Despite the constant reminders that every aspect of life is still affected by the ongoing violence,’ he says, ‘nothing quite beats eating grilled testicles in the spring sunshine at the foothills of the Hindu Kush.’
19 May 07
Guardian
Part three of Stefan Gates’ excellent culinary tour of the world’s trouble spots. This week, the chef visits northern Uganda, where a brutal war has raged between Uganda’s military and the Lord’s Resistance Army, a ragbag militia of rapists and child-snatchers led by a fundamentalist Christian. Gates’ fpcus on the universal preoccupation of food - in this part of Uganda, this involves a depressing anount of bringing ingenuity to bear on aid rations - helps to humanise and explain a conflict which otherwise might well glaze the eyes of the casual viewer. Terrific, again.
AM 29/7/6
Times
Stefan Gates is an engaging, thoughtful and unassuming presenter who has fascinating stories to tell. In tonight’s episode, he visits the exclusion zone in Chernobyl, where you can’t eat a meal without getting it checked first with a Geiger counter. BBC Health and Safety guidelines forbid him to eat anything – which he ignores – although he does at least have the good sense to check out the mushrooms he picked with the mayor, which turn out to contain eight times the accepted levels of radiation. In the same programme, he travels to Tonga in the Pacific. Thanks to the local enthusiasm for suckling pig, vast tubs of corned beef and coconut milk with everything, it has the most overweight population in the world.
12 May 07
Sunday Times
This excellent series continues with Stefan Gates in Venezuela the day after the radical Hugo Chavez was re-elected president, First on the menu is a confusing post-election press conference, washed down with a riot and seasoned with tear gas and gunfire. Chavez channels oil into assisting the poor, and the presenter visits one of the 6,000 state-funded soup kitchens that feed one million a day.
Sunday Times 24/2/7
Independent
In the final episode of this absorbing series, Stefan Gates steals into the perilous eastern jungles of Burma, where he patrols with the Karen rebels and finds out how their crops have been devastated by the Burmese army
Independent 3/3/7
Sunday Times
Stefan Gates, who presents this excellent show, has agreed in advance to refuse all food from Chernobyl lest it be contaminated with radiation. Faced with an insulting 80-year-old whose soup he won’t taste, Gates politely tucks in, despite audible instructions to the contrary from his producer. His bravado quickly loses its sheen, however, when doctors find raised levels of radioactivity in his stomach.
Sunday Times 4/2/7
TM